Emergency Disinfection
The outside of a sand point or driven well and all associated equipment should be cleaned following the procedures for drilled wells as much as possible. Then:
1. Pump the well to waste until the water is clear. If possible, avoid pumping water into the pressure tank or the distribution system.
- Pump water through the distribution system until the water from all of the taps run clear. If the pressure tank or water heaters contain dirty water, drain them first.
- Turn off the pump and drain the pressure tank. Using a drain plug opening, pressure gage opening outlet pipe, or other opening into the pressure tank, add chlorine bleach or other chlorine into the pressure tank, so that the water in the tank contains approximately 50 ppm free chlorine. This will take approximately 3 (three) tablespoons, or 1 ½ ounces of bleach for each 10 (ten) gallon of tank capacity (a 50-gallon tank, for example, will require approximately ¾ (three fourths) of a cup of bleach.
- Open all taps one-by-one until chlorinated water comes through each tap. If available, test the water with chlorine test papers. If there is between 10 and 50 ppm chlorine residual go to step 4; if there is less than 10 ppm, add more chlorine to the pressure tank and repeat this step. Let the water stand in the system for at least 4 hours, preferably 12 hours or overnight.
- After at least 4 hours, flush the system by allowing water to run until the chlorine level is reduced to 5 ppm or less, or until no chlorine taste or odor is detected (if available, use a chlorine test kit).
- Have the water tested for the presence of bacteria. Continue to disinfect water used for drinking or cooking using the emergency disinfection purposes until a satisfactory bacteriological test result is received. If the test results are unsatisfactory, repeat the disinfection process. The water should be tested again for bacteria after 2 weeks
Disinfecting Drinking Water
The following guidelines are recommendations from the Department of Health and Senior Services. Other agencies may have different recommendations for water disinfection but the department believes these to be workable and the most effective and safe for the public.
Private water supplies will become contaminated if any open part of the system has become submerged due to flooding, including but not limited to, a well cistern head or any faucet end in the piping system. Flood waters are contaminated due to the tremendous number of contaminants dissolved in the waters such as livestock manure, washed out septic systems and flooded municipal sewage treatment plants.
Water to be used for drinking, cooking making any prepared drink, or brushing teeth should be properly disinfected.
All water possibly contaminated by flooding must be disinfected, whether from wells or cisterns.
Drinking water may be treated by one of the following methods:
· Boil water for three (3) minutes in a clean container. The flat taste can be eliminated by shaking the water in a bottle or by pouring it from one container to another.
· Mix one eighth (1/8) teaspoon of liquid, unscented chlorine laundry bleach, with one (1) gallon of water, and let stand for at least thirty (30) minutes before drinking. Larger quantities of water (10 gallons at a time) may be sterilized with common household bleach (having 4 to 6 percent available chlorine) by using only 2 (two) teaspoons of bleach in clear water. It is important to allow any turbid or dirty water to settle before sterilization is attempted. Pour the clear water in a clean container containing the bleach. Allow the water to stand for 1 (one) hour before using.
Tincture of Iodine
Common household iodine from the medicine chest or first aid package may be used to disinfect water. Add five drops of 2 (two) percent United States Pharmacopoeia (U.S.P) tincture of iodine to each quart of clear water. For turbid water, add 10 (ten) drops and let the solution stand for at least 30 minutes.